There are a variety of beneficial bugs all around the world but spiders are probably the most well-known and possibly the most feared.

Spiders are beneficial (pdf) for pest control because of their diet; they eat arthropods and other insects. They’re also great for controlling pests since spiders feed on a wide variety of insects all year round.

Garden spiders and house spiders are both helpful for controlling nuisance insects both inside and out. They feed on common indoor and outdoor pests including ants, cockroaches, fruit flies, beetles, etc…

Another benefit to having the spiders around (pdf) is they kill a large number of insects who destroy crops and carry diseases. I’ve already mentioned several species of insects such as the Asian Citrus Psyllid and Mediterranean fruit fly who cause billions of dollars in crop loss every year. Spiders are essentially a cost effective and environmentally friendly form of pest control.

Of course not all spiders are beneficial; a few are dangerous but the majority of spiders are harmless and even helpful. Out of the ~3,000 species of spiders in the United States, only a few are poisonous; the most popular being the black widow and the brown recluse.

Unfortunately spiders have a bad reputation for being creepy crawly and causing painful, red bumps from their bites. Many times, spider bites are confused with the bites of mites or ticks. Needless to say, most people don’t want to see spiders in the house so here’s what to do if you want to cut down on the number of spiders in your dwelling.

• Vacuum spiders
• Get rid of just the spider webs
• Make it more difficult for spiders to get inside by using screens in the windows and caulk any gaps in windows and doors
• Take spiders outside instead of killing them on the spot
• Remember the needs of pests (spiders included)…if you eliminate their food supply then they will look else where for food

If you think the spider population in your home has gotten out of control or you just can’t stand the idea of spiders lurking in the shadows, contact an exterminator near you for a little assistance.

{photo credit: klynslis}

Most people have at least seen a picture of a stick insect before. They’re known for resembling sticks (looking identical really) and other varieties of vegetation. Their "camo" is some of the best in the natural world.

Also known as walking sticks, stick insects are members of the order Phasmatodea and there are over 3,000 species; they vary in size from 1/2" to up to 13". Phasmatodea can be found world-wide but like many odd insects, most sticks are found in the warm tropics.

As I’m sure you would guess, stick insects are herbivores; they only eat the leaves of shrubs and other plants. Also, sticks are nocturnal and spend their day hanging from the plants they’ll eat for dinner.

As you can see in the video below, it’s common for walking sticks to rock back and forth. There are several theories for this motion:

1. The rocking motion is meant to resemble leaves and sticks swaying in the wind…an elaborate accessory to their already effective disguise.

2. The second theory is related to relative movement…it is thought the stick bugs rock back and forth to determine what objects are in the background and what objects are in the foreground.

Stick bugs are also unique because some species are parthenogenetic meaning they reproduce asexually. The females lay eggs and the eggs develop without being fertilized. The eggs hatch and the nymphs closely resemble the adults.

Did you know? Stick insects are often kept as pets. Pet stick bugs are easy to care for and can live up to three years in captivity. Of all the species, the Indian stick insect is probably the most common stick species kept as a pet; they can grow up to 3.9" in length. Never release a pet stick they can and have become an ecological problem.

{photo credit: Kate’s Photo Diary}

Head lice are not considered one of the "traditional" pests but ask anyone who’s had to deal with lice and they’ll tell you head lice are definitely pests.

Just like trying to control a flea infestation, it can be helpful to understand the life cycle of a head louse. There are three stages to the head lice life cycle:

1. Eggs – Eggs from louse are often called nits and can be mistaken for dandruff because of their size and color. Nits can be found near the scalp at the base of the hair; they like the warmth. Louse eggs can take six to nine days to hatch.
2. Nymphs – A nymph is the result of a hatched louse egg; they’re about the size of a pin head. Nymphs remain at that stage for seven days and will go through three molts during those seven days.
3. Adults – Adult lice have six legs are about the size of a sesame seed; they can live on a human head for about a month.

Lice can only live for a day or two without a meal, but it is important to treat your home for lice while treating yourself or kids. Oh, and don’t worry about Fifi and Fido; lice are species specific and head lice aren’t particularly interested in your dog or cat. Here are some basic steps to get a good handle on your lice infestation:

Wash – According to the CDC, lice are killed after being exposed for five minutes to temperatures higher than 128°F…so wash and dry appropriate articles on high heat. Here are some common items to wash:

• clothing 
• bedding 
• hats (don’t forget the ball caps) 
• scarves
• stuffed animals

Combs and brushes can be soaked and washed on a daily basis with soapy hot water while you still have an infestation.

If something cannot be washed, can it be dry cleaned?

Freeze – Freezing can be a great alternative to washing items (lice should be dead after 10  hours in a freezer at 5°F or below, according to the CDC); sealing items in a bag for two weeks is another option…here are some items commonly treated by freezing:

• headphones
• helmets
• head bands, hair ribbons, etc…

Vacuum – This is great mechanical way to physically remove the lice…you may want to toss the bag or dump out your vacuum’s canister after sweeping. Try vacuuming these areas:

• carpets
• floors
• furniture
• cribs
• mattresses
• car seats, floors, etc..

Head lice are more of a nuisance than a health hazard; they are not known to transmit diseases or bacteria.

{Photo Credit (louse life cycle): CDC}

Hantavirus or hantavirus pulmonary syndrome (HPS) is a virus contracted from rodents. With rodents starting to seek refuge inside, it’s something to be aware of. The Deer mouse is the primary carrier of the hantavirus in the United States but HPS can also be carried by cotton rats, rice rats and white-footed mice.

Since 2002 there have been over 300 known cases of HPS in California; unfortunately the virus proved fatal for almost 40%. As with many conditions, the prognosis of survival is much better when the virus is detected early on. HPS may stay dormant for one to five weeks before any symptoms appear; when the infected person starts to feel sick, the symptoms resemble those associated with the flu.

• Fatigue
• Muscle aches
• Fever
• Chills (only seen in about half the patients)
• Headaches (only seen in about half the patients)

After a period of up to 10 days, the infected person starts to develop respiratory problems including shortness of breath and/or coughing. At this point, it is imperative the infected person seeks medical attention.

As far as treatment goes, there is not a specific cure for the virus but oxygen therapy has been relatively successful in patients when the virus is diagnosed in the early stages. If you suspect hantavirus, be sure to tell your doctor you’ve been exposed to rodents.

HPS can be contracted through exposure to bedding, droppings, saliva or the urine. Aerosolization , according to Hypergrowth, creator of this blog, is one of the main ways to be exposed to HPS. In aerosolization, fine particles from the rodent (i.e. urine, droppings, saliva) carrying the virus are breathed in through the air; this provides an easy way for the virus to enter the body.

Because of aerosolization, it’s important to take some precautions when cleaning up after rodents. First off, do not sweep or vacuum the area. Completely soak the area in household cleaner or bleach mixture (1.5 cups of bleach with 1 gallon of water). After everything is wet, use a wet towel to pick up materials. Thoroughly disinfect the area again using a sponge and more household cleaner. Don’t forget to wear gloves and wash your hands after you remove the gloves.

Take care when cleaning up after rodents, and contact your local pest control company for some assistance if you’re concerned about exposure to HPS.

A couple weeks ago we mentioned the roof rat as one of California’s most common pest rodents, but there are others seen quite often including the Norway rat and the house mouse.

Rodents start to head indoors in early winter or when the temperatures start dropping; they move back outside in late spring. During this time of year, you may suspect a rodent infestation. Since rodents often move around at night when everything is quiet, it’s difficult to identify what rodent you have in your house, structure, etc… One of the best ways to properly identify your lurking creature is by taking a look at its droppings…yes, its poop.

Here’s a great visual of the differences between the three droppings.

House Mouse

House mouse droppings are the smallest of the three; their droppings are rod shaped, pointed at the ends and range between 1/8” and a 1/4” inch long.

Roof Rat

Droppings from roof rats are spindle shaped, curved and can reach about 1/4” to 1/2” in length.

Norway Rat

The droppings from the Norway rat are going to be the largest since the actual rodent is the largest out of the three. On average, Norway rat droppings are capsule shaped, vary between 1/2” to 3/4” in length and have blunt or rounded ends.

Fresh droppings can be a good indicator of a present rat infestation. Newer rodent feces are typically shiny and soft but after a few days the droppings will be dull, even grayish, and will become very brittle.

Note: Always use gloves and take precautions when inspecting or removing rodent droppings.

{photo credit (Norway rat): Losch}

{photo credit (roof rat): michaelpickard}

Many people attempt do-it-yourself pest control before contacting a company. DIY pest control can work if it’s not done recklessly but there are a few things to keep in mind to limit the negative effects on our water, air, ground, etc… when using pesticides.

• Follow the label on the products – I know it’s common sense but the label is there for a reason
• Get rid of unused products properly…check the label for instructions and use a household waste collection center when necessary. Visit Earth911.com to find a HHW center near you. Here’s a list of HHW centers near Irvine, California.
• Do not mix pesticides near a well head and be sure your well isolates surface water sources
• Avoid using pesticides when winds are more than 10 mph
• Do not recycle any containers that have once stored pesticides unless your recycling program accepts those containers

Why is this a problem? Our fresh water comes from two sources: ground water and surface water. Surface water is found in lakes, rivers, reservoirs (fake lakes), etc… On the other hand, ground water is often found in aquifers which are water-bearing layers of earth.

Pesticides can enter our drinking water a number of ways; washing away from rain, seeping through the soil and into an aquifer, being intentionally added by water treatment plants to protect people from bacteria and unfortunately, illegally dumping pesticides down the drain, in creeks, etc…

Note: Drinking water is regularly tested for pesticides, among other things. To find more information about your drinking water, contact your local government.

If there are pesticides or other chemicals in our water then fish are swimming in it and animals (humans too) might be drinking it. All chemicals (pesticides included) are harmful but the effects depend on the type of chemical, the amount of that chemical and the species exposed to the pesticide. For instance, pyrethroids are a class of pesticides considered very toxic to invertebrates but they do not affect humans as much.

So take care when applying your own pesticides and if you can, try an alternative pest control methods first. When in doubt, contact a professional company. A pest control company has countless hours of experience in properly applying pesticides.

Resources

The EPA has an excellent Citizen’s Guide to Pest Control and Pest Safety (pdf) – the guide is thorough and comprehensive

EPA Region 9 (includes California) Water Program

State of California Pesticide Regulations

{photo credit: over_kind_man}

Pepé Le Pew is one of the most beloved skunks off all time; unfortunately, skunks in real life can be quite the nuisance and not so charming.

There are over 10 species of skunks in the world but only two species of skunks live in California; the spotted skunk (below) and the striped skunk (left) which happens to be the most common.

There are several problems associated with skunks including:

Carry diseases – Skunks may be annoying but they are also considered a health concern because they can and often do carry rabies. If you have been bitten by a skunk, regardless of its behavior, seek medical attention. Behavior of skunks with rabies is similar to other mammals with the infectious disease; wild skunks that seem domesticated, unafraid of humans and wander around during the day may have rabies. Skunks can also carry listeriosis, canine distemper and canine hepatitis to name a few diseases.

They Stink – Skunks are infamous for their spraying. They spray as a defense mechanism and can spray up 10-12 feet. Skunk musk is a mixture of sulfur-containing chemicals and is expelled from glands on their back end. The odor of skunk spray is strong enough to keep bears away and is thought to be detectable to a downwind human nose up to a mile away.

Skunk Odor Removal Note: Do not try to store this solution. A small chemical reaction occurs when the solution is mixed; the expanding gases of the mixture could explode if stored in a bottle.

Dig Your Garden and Lawn – These nocturnal animals eat insects, berries, grains, eggs and even garbage; they have no problem digging small holes in your lawn hoping to find a nice grub or two.

Have Skunks? You do have a few options but it may be best to call your local pest control company; chances are they know the most efficient way to solve your skunk problems. If you do want to try some DIY skunk removal, trapping is an option although it’s best to have experience before trapping a skunk. Beware, in California you can not relocate the skunk to another area without a permit.

Some people claim to have success with using ammonia as repellent and to “chase” them from under decks, patios, etc…

There are a few steps you can take to reduce the chances of having a skunk problem.

• Exclusion or sealing common nesting spaces such as under decks and porches is an excellent way to keep the skunks from sharing your house with you; just make sure there aren’t any skunks already in the space you plan to block off.
• Controlling the bugs in your yard is another way to prevent skunks from hanging around. Also, keep pet food, bird feed, etc… in tightly sealed containers and out of skunk reach if possible. Remember, pests look for food, shelter and water and they’ll stick around if they’re given everything they need.

{photo credit top left: Charles and Clint}

The state of California is known for its agriculture; the temperate climate makes it the perfect growing environment. With the crops come a group of both exotic and invasive pests who threaten the health of the plants and cost the growers big dollars. The Asian Citrus Psyllid is a well-known invasive pest in California; this pest carries the bacterial plant disease Huanglongbing (HLB) which can kill the citrus trees.

The Mediterranean fruit fly, also known as medfly, is an exotic pest considered to be a major threat to the state of California’s agriculture. The medflies lay eggs under the skin of fruits and vegetables; the eggs hatch and the medfly larvae remains inside the fruit or vegetable. This of course makes the fruit inedible and it’s now easy to transport infected fruit all around the world. Mediterranean fruit flies are native to Africa but can now be found in counties all around the globe; the medfly was first detected in the continental US in 1929.

The Mediterranean Fruit Fly has been found infesting over 300 varieties of fruits and vegetables. California crops threatened by the fly include orange, plum, walnut, apple, apricot, avocado, bell pepper, fig, grape, grapefruit, lemon, lime, melon, nectarine,  peach, pear, persimmon, pomegranate, tangerine, tomato and grapefruit.

So what is being done to control the Mediterranean Fruit Fly? Sterile Insect Technique (STI) and quarantines. STI is the process of releasing sterile insects to disrupt the reproductive cycle of the insect. STI has been used successfully in the past and is used when medflies are found around the area. It is an ongoing process of STI and quarantines to make sure this species of fruit fly does not become established in the United States.

What can you do to help? Avoiding shipping fruits and vegetables into the state of California unless they have been looked over by an agricultural inspector. Also, it may seem like common sense, but cooperate with quarantine restrictions, they are there for a reason.

The USDA has a site specifically designated as an invasive species information center. It’s interesting to see the invasive animals, plants, aquatic species and even microbes affecting not just California but states around the US.

{photo credit: sarsifa}

Did you know it is estimated over 12,000 species of ants crawl this planet? It’s true and about 200 species of ants call California home.

The most common ant in California is the Argentine ant but it is not indigenous to The Golden State. The Argentine ant is native to southern South America; like many other species of pests, the ant was unintentionally brought to Europe, Australia, Hawaii, and of course, North America.

These ants are one of the world’s worst invaders and part of that is because of their ant mega-colonies. It is believed there is a huge colony in California stretching for 560 miles; this colony is often referred to as Californian large. Ant mega-colonies have become a major issue because they often attack crops and affect animal populations.

For instance, Argentine ants may be responsible for the decline in the coast horned lizards in California. Argentine ants dine of several species of ants that primarily make up the diet of these lizards. The large number of ants belonging to the Argentine ant mega-colonies just devour the ants needed to sustain the coast horned lizard population.

Basic facts about Argentine ants:

• Dark colored
• Worker ants are just 3 millimeters long and queen ants vary from six to 12 millimeters in length
• Prefer sweets including fresh fruit
• Crawl quickly in clear-cut trails
• Possibility of millions of ants per colony

Argentine ants seek refuge in houses and buildings because they are looking for food and/or water or they may be seeking shelter after a heavy rain. Controlling Argentine ants can be a daunting task since killing the workers isn’t effective as a queen will just produce more workers AND one colony can have multiple queens; contacting a local exterminator is often a good idea. But if you would like to try some DIY pest control, there are some options.

Slow acting poison baits typically work best since the bait will eventually make it to the queen.  There is a homemade ant bait recipe out there that many people have had success with; dissolve 1/4 teaspoon of boric acid powder and 1 tablespoon of white sugar with 3 tablespoons of water. Place the bait in an area the ants will visit. This method of pest control can take four or five days to work since the bait needs to make it through the entire colony.

Proper sanitation and caulking ant entrances are both good ways to avoid an Argentine ant invasion.

{Bottom right photo credit: Matthew Townsend}